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The beginning of Peranakan Phuket
Since the discovery of tin plating technology for food storage and preservation in 19th century, there was a huge demand of tin in Europe and thus Thai government permits people to mine freely thus lack of manpower. Phuket governors then invite and hired Fujian Chinese immigrants for labour in tin mining. The immigrants then have the opportunity to raise themselves from tin miner to owner of tin mining operation where a mix of culture occurred between Chinese, Thai and Malaysian who then became Baba Phuket or Peranakan Phuket today.
Fujian Chinese immigrants who migrated down during early era of tin rush mainly use man labour power where panning by hand is the method. These early settlers were the starting point of sudden growth of economy in Phuket.
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Buildings& Architecture
Early era of Phuket’s buildings and architecture was influenced by China where materials such as clay, bricks for walls, window and door frames, roofing are used instead of wood and bamboo where the height is quite limited. Then came shophouses where there were mixtures of cultures between Chinese and Europeans architecture also called Sino-European, Sino-Portuguese or even Straits-Eclectic
There are numbers of interesting buildings in Phuket such as Shophouses with narrow width and long in depth with a mixture of living quarters and retail spaces and another which is the Mansions also called Ang Mor Lao with European looking structures, decorated with Chinese motifs and believes.
Sino-Portuguese Architecture
“Sino-Portuguese”
Portuguese in the old days came in and settled around the port of Melaka, Malaysia. They have introduced arts, culture and also Western technology to the locals. They commissioned the Chinese immigrants to carry out the construction, the characteristics of the houses became a mix of Chinese (Sino) and Portuguese style thus the derivation of a new style called “Sino-Portuguese”.
Another theory has it that the Sino-Portuguese architecture is actually a mix between Chinese and European or “Sino-European” architecture. The style of architecture from Europe was influenced by colonialisation incorporating a mixture of Roman architecture shown in the forms of the columns, decorations, ornaments and motifs. The builders in the Malacca straits during the time integrated the above qualities from each culture along with Chinese and the local ones to construct many buildings present in Phuket today.
The Thalang Road Architecture (Shophouses)
The two-storied shophouses in Old Phuket Town generally have two purposes; commerce and residential. The building has a specific character with narrow front and long depth. The front of the shophouses consist of a connected arch walkway or “arcade” covering the length of the street known as “Ngor-Ka-Kee” from Chinese Hokkien.
The ground floor’s long depth arrangements comprised of five main sections;
First, the shop front with doors and windows including air void above the windows. The shop front resembles the face of a dragon with mouth (doors), two eyes (two windows) and air void above windows (eyebrows).
The second section is either a shop or guest welcome area.
The third section which is considered going into the body of the dragon, there is normally an area in the middle of the house for water well called “Chim-Jae”. This area is for washing, there is no roof and left void for the sun to shine through as a source of light and also for ventilation as the heat is confined by the width of the house.
The forth part, prior to the last part of the house is the dining area which is connected to the kitchen.
The last section is the toilet and considered the tail of a dragon.
The second floor where the bedrooms are is called “Lao-Teng” which means upstairs, the second floor at the front of the house protrudes the ground floor’s front and became a cover for the “arcade” walkway underneath. The covered walkway’s purpose is to shelter people from Phuket’s heavy rain.
The Mansion or Ang-Mor-Lao
In the past (about 100 years ago) the communication between Phuket and Bangkok, the capital of Thailand was done with great difficulty. Despite the construction of railways to Kantang, Trang by King Rama V, travelling to Bangkok still required up to three to four days or even a week in comparison to travelling to Penang which only took a day via steamboat, which explains why Phuket businessmen travelled more frequently to Penang than Bangkok. Similarly in case of education, wealthy families in Phuket preferred to send their kids to schools in Penang. When they return to Phuket they brought back with them the blueprints of the unique Sino-European architecture they were exposed to in Penang and commissioned builders to build their houses similar to the likes of Penang, we call these mansions “Ang-Mor-Lao”
There’s a believe that the house resembles of a whole dragon where face of a dragon is the front of the house with door as mouth, eyes are windows and eyebrows are ventilation above.
Reception area is at the forefront of the house, decorated with furniture such as mother pearl inlaid table, pray table, imported lamps, picture frames, clock and chandelier.
Chim-jae is an open area in the middle of the house with no roof for air ventilation, sunlight and collecting rain water where the Chinese believed that water is wealth thus must be collected at the stomach of a dragon. Chim-jae’s another purpose is as a washing area.
Dining area is connected to Kitchen.
The Kitchen is way at the back of the house near the backyard with wooden stove.
The building furthest back of shophouse is considered a tail of a dragon and that is the toilet.
In front of shophouses there is something called the arcade, in Phuket we called it Ngor Kha Kee which is in Chinese Fujian dialect meaning 5 feet walk way, where between passing through the front of each shophouses you will find an archway supported with Greek-Roman decorated columns. This walkway is mostly covered by the second floor of the Shophouse protecting pedestrian from rain and sunshine showing generosity of shophouse owners to the public.
The most forefront are of the house is for welcoming guests and customers, where pray table is situated and the most exquisite furniture and décor will be in this area such as chandelier, clock, oval shape mirror, engraved partition, etc. In the past, daughter of the house is not allowed to come out greets the male visitors however the partition is there to lookout for potential future husband with matchmaker.
In Fujian Chinese dialect, chim means deep and jae means open outdoor space; a well is normally placed here where this area of the house is built approximately 1 foot lower than the floor level with void open space for airflow ventilation, sunlight and rain water, believing that this makes people in the house living well and pending wind or water for wealth
Wood stove made of clay or bricks are used for cooking with woks and saucepans, fire adjusts according to the menu and recipes.
Moo-Hong
Nam-Prik-Koong-Siab
Mee-Hokkien
God of Fire Stove, presented with pray shelf on the wall on the side of wood stove.
Situated upstairs on the second floor. The story goes; 3 days before wedding day, the bride would prepare nicely the beddings, pillows, curtains, handcrafted flowers and other décor to decorate the bride’s bedroom. Where this room would look the most outstanding compare to the rest of the house. The day of the wedding, guests would then be invited to come in the house and specifically inspect the bride’s room for that people can see the bride is good with housework, houseshore, handcrafts and ready to be the wife.
Thalang Road with history of more than 150 years and road length of 450 meters, Phuket Old Town is right in the center of commercial center of the city. There are more than 140 Shophouses on the road.
Chartered Bank
The first bank that was open in Phuket, a branch from Penang. The bank was responsible for all transactions with international trades.
Buildings on Dibuk Road were well preserved for residential area.
Sin Yoo Chang
The history of jeweler who passed on trade for 4 generations, from Mee Chang to Yong Yoo Chang to Sin Yoo Chang to Taweesuwan. The story begins with Mr. Oo Bae, who’s well known jeweler in Baan Mor, Bangkok with Mee Chang Jewelry Shop.
The shop then relocated to Phuket and on 2nd December 1938 established Yong Yoo Chang, where the eldest son Mr. Tawee Suwannakarn is helping the business. Once Mr. Tawee is 35 years of age, the shop has been expanded to Yong Yoo Chang branch, later on rename as Sin Yoo Chang, you see today.
28th March 1986, Taweesuwan Co., Ltd. is established where Mr. Santi Suwannakarn is caretaker of the jewelry business, selling gold and diamond jewelry and also import quality materials such as diamonds from abroad.
28th September 2004, Taweesuwan has expanded to become a full functioning factory as Phuket Diamond and Gold Co., Ltd.
15th October 2004, Taweesuwan has expanded another branch to Central Festival Phuket.
In 2009, Taweesuwan has established gold investment and trading firm, Phuket Gold Co., Ltd.
29th March 2014, Taweesuwan has expanded another branch at The Garden: Peranakan Phuket Museum.
Fashion and clothing for Baba and Nyonya Phuket has a wide range of designs from early era where color tone is on the dark side color from navy to black and the fabric material is quite rough.
Tin Mine Owner costume, the costume was influence by European where the color is raised with 5 buttons with hard hat and a staff, this is generally the fashion for gentleman.
For the bride in those days would wear long gown, soft silky fabric with auspicious color like pink or red with ornaments and jewelry from head to toe. The gown is seen through where inside the bride with wear a shirt with raised collar with long sleeves and sarong. The jewelry would made up of many different designs mainly made out of gold and gems stones such as diamonds.
For the groom, it’s suit, trousers and tie, these are popular in those days, influenced by Western’s customs where there will be additional corsage and bintang attached on suit’s lapel (star-shape jewelry).
Half gown dress (Pua-Teung-Tae), very similar to the long gown but shorter to the hip, the design involved over time to be more accommodate daily usage.
Kebaya, the blouse is famous due to its delicate craftsmanship and suits the weather in the Straits region where underneath ladies would wear brassier and sarong.
Vegetarian Festival or the Nine Emperor Gods Festival
The legend goes, there was a Chinese orchestra band performing in Kathu, Phuket. There were illness suddenly caught by everyone, they then realized that they have yet to perform cleansing and going through vegetarian eating routine, then all got better and words passed on to the festival today.
Baba wedding ceremony consists of mixture of Thai, Chinese and Malaysian customs. In the past, matchmaker (Eum-lang) is a very important person for marriage where she was the one who introduced and persuade the wedding to happen, the matchmaker is someone who’s well respected within the community, good persuader and negotiator. After the wedding ceremony, matchmaker would receive red envelope (Angpao or money) and also pork leg as thank you gifts.
After matchmaker and bride’s parent has confirmed that the wedding will be taking place, they will also have to pick a date and also auspicious month to get married, in Thailand auspicious month would be in Thai calendar month: 6, 9 and 12.
Exchanging ring, this is to confirm that the wedding will surely take place where matchmaker and elders of the groom would wrap red thread inside the ring put inside folded red paper then travel to bride’s house with auspicious sweets in a bamboo basket called Sianah.
2.Chinese Lunar New Year
3.Thai New Year (Songkran Festival) on 13th to 15th April
Chinese God Worship Day
The ceremony is held on the last day of Chinese New Year where people pray to gods for prosperity and happiness. The main offerings include a pair of sugarcanes, auspicious fruits and sweets.
Por Tor Festival
Por Tor or the “Hungry Ghost” Festival marks the mid year on the Chinese lunar calendar, it is believed to be the period when the Heaven and Hell gates open and spirits are allowed to revisit homes on Earth. It is a merit-making festival where food offerings are prepared for their ancestors and the hungry spirits with no relatives. The symbol of the event is the red turtle cake “Ang-ku” which come in all sizes. The Ang-ku cakes are made from wheat flour and sugar. The turtle symbolizes strength and longevity.
Mid-Autumn Festival (Mooncake Festival)
The festival occurs during the autumnal equinox when the moon is said to be the fullest (the harvest moon). It is the time of the year to give thanks and celebrate the time of abundance and to pay respect to the late ancestors. Moon worship is done in an open space where an offering table is set up with mooncakes, fruits, snacks and incenses. Mooncakes are then divided and shared among family members. They come in various fillings, the standard fillings being red beans, mixed nuts and lotus seeds.
Basket made out of woven bamboo painted red and black decorated with gold. Three-layered basket is called “Sia-Nah” and one-layered is called “Huad-Nah”
In the past, Chinese Hokkien and Chaozhou often used these bamboo baskets during festivals and auspicious occasions such as weddings, birthdays, new years, praying to gods, etc. For each occasion, the basket could be filled with food, sweets and even engagement dowries.
Nowadays, the basket is mainly used for carrying engagement dowries. “Eum-Lang” or “The Matchmaker” will be the one to pass these gifts to the bride’s parent.
Hwa Khwan or the wedding headdress is composed of flower-shaped silver and golden tinsels glass and golden beads. The brides would put their hair
up in a specific high bun. The front is combed back the sides and the back are puffed up. The bun is decorated with a swan or a phoenix made of gold
or silver. The swan is believed to be the greatest bird with a beautiful flute-like cry and usually seen wading through calm and peaceful habitat. The
swan is a symbol to remind the bride that when she marries into the husband family she must be gracious and well spoke like the peaceful cry
of the swan. She must nurture a calm and peaceful home. The front of the bun is decorated with flowers and butterflies which symbolizes married life
and eternal love. Hairpins are then placed around the head. In the past the bride and the groom would meet for the first time on their wedding day.
The movable flowers on the headdress show the witnesses how nervous the bride is. The faster the vibration of the flowers more nervous the bride is.